Waterfront Seafood Grill on Pier 70

In Seattle, seafood is by no means considered a rarity. But few restaurants can say they offer the tastes, sights and sounds of the Waterfront Seafood Grill. Perched on Pier 70, with executive chef Peter Levine steering the way, the Waterfront offers a luxurious setting and quality food without the snooty service.

The classic elegance of the restaurant envelops you upon entering. The warm colors of the carpet make way to black leather club chairs with light-colored wood backs around linen-covered tables. Laid out on each table are elaborately folded napkins and colored glass appetizer dishes. The scene, in conjunction with the formally dressed wait staff, gives off a timeless and tasteful vibe. Copper chandeliers hang high from the ceilings, while copper plated support beams lead up to dark slats of wood where tree branches make an appearance with small white lights intertwined, creating a romantic touch.

As I looked to the right of the entry, I marveled at the curvilinear bar spanning across 85 feet and made up of turquoise panels. Backless stools with cushy black leather seats provide a choice view of the Space Needle. Even before hearing Levine's stamp of approval for the bartenders, I'd already made a mental note; the next girl's night out must start out at the Waterfront bar.

To complete the lounge area is a lengthy, just as curvy, booth parallel to the bar. The comfortable, black leather cushions somehow beckon you to sit for hours whether lounging, chatting, eating or drinking.

To the right of the entrance is an open kitchen where chefs are working away for the pleasure of dining customers. Straight ahead, before the spacious main dining area, a piano awaits pianist Ben Fleck, who on most evenings brings soothing sounds in a mix of jazz, show tunes and even unexpected popular melodies of Nirvana or "Bohemian Rhapsody," among others.

Of course, I couldn't ignore the loads of light filtering through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Beyond the windows are magnificent views of the Seattle skyline, Elliot Bay, Magnolia Bluff and Mt. Rainier. I stepped out onto the huge patio, felt the wind in my hair, took in the scent of ocean air and was ready for my helpings of seafood.

I must say, I. Love. Seafood. I've never come across a sea creature I wouldn't eat in a second. So when Levine brought out the shared appetizer plate, Seafood Indulgence, (small: $50 / large: $100) I couldn't help but gape at the beauty that can only be appreciated by a seafood lover who comes face-to-face with a mound of it, served over a bed of shaved ice. There was lobster, chilled prawns, King crab leg, Dungeness fry legs, oysters, wasabi tobiko paired with sides of cocktail, tartar and soy sauce, wasabi paste, vinaigrette...you get the idea.

The Dungeness crab cakes ($18) came out golden brown and crispy with a cake on each side of an oblong white plate over beautifully fanned out avocado slices.

When asked about a good pick from the menu, Levine pointed out, "It depends on how you feel, what's good at the moment," adding that he personally favored the swordfish. "It sounds most exotic with a very quick version of kimchee on top."

The grilled Pacific swordfish ($38) was served with a mixture of sliced butternut squash, fresh pears, pecans, lemon miso butter, sweet chile sauce and napa cabbage. Although unusual sounding, the fish and other components melded together extremely well, and culminated into a bright and refreshing taste.

As for ingredients used, "I want the freshest and best. . . what came in today. You have to start with good ingredients," Levine said. "Not whatever there's a good deal on."

It's no wonder then, that Levine was one of three Seattle chefs chosen to welcome the first shipment of this year's Copper River salmon. A seasonal special, the Copper River Salmon ($60) was served simply over a row of grilled asparagus. With such great natural flavor, this sought-after fish needed little else to make a big impression.

As for those who aren't big on seafood, the restaurant offers several tantalizing meat options. The Waterfront Seafood Grill is part of the Mackay family of restaurants, which includes the well-known El Gaucho steakhouses. With this thought in mind, you can be assured the quality and flavor of the meat and poultry dishes shine as well. Levine joined the Mackay family as executive chef of Troiani Ristorante Italiano for two and a half years before joining the Waterfront in July of 2008.

A well thought out menu isn't complete without a great wine selection and Waterfront has received many awards for their wines. This past April, it was ranked "Best Washington Wine-focused Restaurant Wine List" by Seattle Magazine.

To Levine, this is a special place for an abundance of reasons. "I have the best team I've ever had here. Everyone in that kitchen wants to be a chef one day, and when you have that mentality driving your line, you know they're all striving to do it right over and over again," Levine said. "The trained professional bartenders are the real deal. They are true mixologists. On a whim, we could do an instant wine dinner. The servers, with their level of knowledge, could easily pair the wines. The staff here, these are people that love what they do. We just hope to share this love with our customers."

As Levine joined us through most of our meal, he shared his thoughts, goals, and even pictures of his young sons.

All the while, we didn't have to lift an unnecessary finger as our waters never reached half empty. The friendly wait staff came by frequently to fulfill our wishes before we could form them. As duty called, Levine hopped back into the kitchen, leaving us to our dessert. This was probably good timing since that left me to consume the delicious treats before me.

The Valrhona Chocolate Fondant ($10) was a perfect and lovely flourless chocolate cake with raspberry coulis and organic whipped cream.

The bread pudding, oh my, the bread pudding. To be exact it was Bailey's Chocolate Caramel Bread Pudding ($10). Vanilla bean ice cream topped it off while caramel sauce was drizzled across the plate with a few fresh strawberries.

After admiring and promptly devouring both, I reluctantly got up from my comfy seat to take a final look at the alluring view. I have been told this view is even more spectacular on Thursday evenings when the sailboats are out. Heading towards the door, I took another glance at the bar and noticed it was now lighting up in different hues of blue. This striking detail cemented my plans to return soon for a night out with the girls or an after work drink during happy hour. With all bar snacks half off, drink specials and $1 oysters on the half shell, I'd bet that 4 to 6 p.m. might start being my happiest hours of the day.