A Rosé Remedy: A Lesson In Liquidation
September 9, 2009 0 CommentsHey Seattleites...let's get rowdy. Today we put to rest the
inner wine racist and embrace the pink stuff. This summer sipper's
name I'm referring to is rosé.
Dead are NOT the days of the common confusion that this lovely wine
is sweet (thank you white zinfandel). Know that this is nothing of
the sort. Please, open your mind to understand this beauty of the
beast so many are so afraid of. Allow us to tell rosé's story and
we'll dare you to try some, as the best form of homework you've
ever had. Your classroom today; the glass. And your book; the
bottle.
Rosés are generally best in their youth, when the fruit is most
wild and vivid, and the color still vibrant. They offer elements of
baby strawberries, bright cherry, rhubarb, and mild herbal tones
and contain delicately dry acidity. Rosé, like nothing else but a
slip-n-slide, implies summer is here. When used appropriately, they
can be found waist side on the front porch swing, cradled in the
hammock or within arms reach at the picnic table. Heck, even when
used inappropriately they're great (like committing a cardinal sin
and dropping ice cubes in them). These wines come from all across
the world and can be found in places like the Provence and
Languedoc regions of southern France. Great examples can be found
throughout Spain and even here in the Northwest from places like
Oregon. They are made from a multitude of grape varieties. Have
them with anything you would drink a white wine or light red with.
Oh yeah, and an additional tempting feature, look for them in the
$8 to $20 price range.
Here's how they're made
SKIN CONTACT
Most rosé wines are the result of crushing red grapes. They can be
made still (bubbleless) or sparkling (with bubbles). The juice is
left for a very short time in contact with the skins, which can
impart color, for no more than a few hours. This way, the juice is
only delicately colored. These wines are, in most respects, white
in character and flavor, with only the tinge of red and some subtle
varying tastes belying the difference.
SAIGNEE
Implementing a technique known as "saignée" which means, "bleeding
the vats", can also produce Rosés. Sometimes the winemaker is
looking to make the reds with higher tannin and color
concentration. It is for this reason that some juice is drained
from the fermentation tank at an early stage of production to make
a more intense red wine. This excess pink juice can then be
fermented separately to produce rosé.
BLENDING
In the past, it was fairly common to make rośe wines by simply
taking a white wine and adding a bit of red wine to it. Some
winemakers thought this could produce interesting wines possessing
some of the hearty character of a red wine, while retaining the
crispness of many whites. This practice has fallen out of vogue,
even in Champagne, where it was once quite respected. On that note,
to all you ballers, Louis Roederer (producer of the club favorite
Cristal) makes a rosé selling for almost twice the price of his
popular Brut. Cha ching!
Now that you have a brief understanding and an overview of rośe in
its true pink colors, here's what the local Seattle wine
professionals, sommeliers and a lady off the street had to say when
I asked, "What's the first thing you think of when you hear
rośe?"
Yashar Shayan - bin vivant in Kirkland - "Well, there's definitely
the fact that a lot of consumers still poo poo rośes. I just put
three on by the glass and many guests are into it, but a lot still
cringe when you offer them rośe. They often ask, "Are they all
sweet?'"
Jen Schmitt - Seastar Restaurant and Raw Bar
in Seattle - "I think of summer, picnics, BBQs and fireworks. A
wine geek's happy place!"
Adam Chumas - Tilth in Seattle - "I love the
pink bubbles. High end: Billecart-Salmon. Best value: Louis
Boillot."
Eric Segelbaum - Daniel's Broiler on Lake
Union - "I think years of California white zinfandel have put
an almost irrevocable stain on rośes. Yet what's not to love about
them? They are fresh, crisp, layered, well textured, excellent with
or without food, inexpensive, great for spring and summer, and of
course, pink. What more could you ask for in a wine?"
Lady off the street - 56th and Keystone - "Reminds me of my
honeymoon, but we won't go there."
I know, I know. You're waiting for the homework assignment we
promised you. Attention please: For this assignment, you will be
supplied with a foundation of knowledge of the subject matter at
hand, as we're setting you up for success. What we ask of you is
simply to try at least ONE rośe this summer. Extra points will be
awarded per additional rośe tasted. Extra credit is available to
those of you who explore multiple states, and more importantly,
multiple countries. If you've had a rośe in the past and enjoyed
it, it's probably time you had another. If you've had a rośe in the
past and didn't enjoy it, it's definitely time you had another. We
highly encourage this to be a group project.
There are many different avenues for rośe exploration. The
following suggestions may come in handy. The best place to start
for home enjoyment would be your local wine shop. Consult the
experts for a recommendation; it's what they do. If you buy your
wine at the grocery store, which you probably chose for the label,
do yourself a favor and go to a wine shop this time. Another great
approach is to find your local wine bar, sit down and ask to try
several tastes before you decide on a glass or bottle of a
particular rośe. Samples are a common practice. If you aren't
familiar with where to go, perhaps visit one of the wine
establishments mentioned in this article. Ask for a food pairing
for the full experience. Class dismissed!


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