A Rosé Remedy: A Lesson In Liquidation

September 9, 2009 0 Comments

Hey Seattleites...let's get rowdy. Today we put to rest the inner wine racist and embrace the pink stuff. This summer sipper's name I'm referring to is rosé.

Dead are NOT the days of the common confusion that this lovely wine is sweet (thank you white zinfandel). Know that this is nothing of the sort. Please, open your mind to understand this beauty of the beast so many are so afraid of. Allow us to tell rosé's story and we'll dare you to try some, as the best form of homework you've ever had. Your classroom today; the glass. And your book; the bottle.
Rosés are generally best in their youth, when the fruit is most wild and vivid, and the color still vibrant. They offer elements of baby strawberries, bright cherry, rhubarb, and mild herbal tones and contain delicately dry acidity. Rosé, like nothing else but a slip-n-slide, implies summer is here. When used appropriately, they can be found waist side on the front porch swing, cradled in the hammock or within arms reach at the picnic table. Heck, even when used inappropriately they're great (like committing a cardinal sin and dropping ice cubes in them). These wines come from all across the world and can be found in places like the Provence and Languedoc regions of southern France. Great examples can be found throughout Spain and even here in the Northwest from places like Oregon. They are made from a multitude of grape varieties. Have them with anything you would drink a white wine or light red with. Oh yeah, and an additional tempting feature, look for them in the $8 to $20 price range.

Here's how they're made

SKIN CONTACT

Most rosé wines are the result of crushing red grapes. They can be made still (bubbleless) or sparkling (with bubbles). The juice is left for a very short time in contact with the skins, which can impart color, for no more than a few hours. This way, the juice is only delicately colored. These wines are, in most respects, white in character and flavor, with only the tinge of red and some subtle varying tastes belying the difference.

SAIGNEE

Implementing a technique known as "saignée" which means, "bleeding the vats", can also produce Rosés. Sometimes the winemaker is looking to make the reds with higher tannin and color concentration. It is for this reason that some juice is drained from the fermentation tank at an early stage of production to make a more intense red wine. This excess pink juice can then be fermented separately to produce rosé.

BLENDING

In the past, it was fairly common to make rośe wines by simply taking a white wine and adding a bit of red wine to it. Some winemakers thought this could produce interesting wines possessing some of the hearty character of a red wine, while retaining the crispness of many whites. This practice has fallen out of vogue, even in Champagne, where it was once quite respected. On that note, to all you ballers, Louis Roederer (producer of the club favorite Cristal) makes a rosé selling for almost twice the price of his popular Brut. Cha ching!


Now that you have a brief understanding and an overview of rośe in its true pink colors, here's what the local Seattle wine professionals, sommeliers and a lady off the street had to say when I asked, "What's the first thing you think of when you hear rośe?"

Yashar Shayan - bin vivant in Kirkland - "Well, there's definitely the fact that a lot of consumers still poo poo rośes. I just put three on by the glass and many guests are into it, but a lot still cringe when you offer them rośe. They often ask, "Are they all sweet?'"

Jen Schmitt - Seastar Restaurant and Raw Bar in Seattle - "I think of summer, picnics, BBQs and fireworks. A wine geek's happy place!"

Adam Chumas - Tilth in Seattle - "I love the pink bubbles. High end: Billecart-Salmon. Best value: Louis Boillot."

Eric Segelbaum - Daniel's Broiler on Lake Union - "I think years of California white zinfandel have put an almost irrevocable stain on rośes. Yet what's not to love about them? They are fresh, crisp, layered, well textured, excellent with or without food, inexpensive, great for spring and summer, and of course, pink. What more could you ask for in a wine?"

Lady off the street - 56th and Keystone - "Reminds me of my honeymoon, but we won't go there."

I know, I know. You're waiting for the homework assignment we promised you. Attention please: For this assignment, you will be supplied with a foundation of knowledge of the subject matter at hand, as we're setting you up for success. What we ask of you is simply to try at least ONE rośe this summer. Extra points will be awarded per additional rośe tasted. Extra credit is available to those of you who explore multiple states, and more importantly, multiple countries. If you've had a rośe in the past and enjoyed it, it's probably time you had another. If you've had a rośe in the past and didn't enjoy it, it's definitely time you had another. We highly encourage this to be a group project.

There are many different avenues for rośe exploration. The following suggestions may come in handy. The best place to start for home enjoyment would be your local wine shop. Consult the experts for a recommendation; it's what they do. If you buy your wine at the grocery store, which you probably chose for the label, do yourself a favor and go to a wine shop this time. Another great approach is to find your local wine bar, sit down and ask to try several tastes before you decide on a glass or bottle of a particular rośe. Samples are a common practice. If you aren't familiar with where to go, perhaps visit one of the wine establishments mentioned in this article. Ask for a food pairing for the full experience. Class dismissed!

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