Seattle Food Local Favorites
September 21, 2009 0 CommentsThe complexities of food are unlike those of any other
substance. The ability to nourish the body, enrich the mind and
fill our hearts are just some of food's powers. But seeing food as
a form of expression, as an art, is reserved for those with a
greater passion for cuisine. The end result was five great
restaurants with five great chefs that were delighted to share
their works of art with us.
For a little northern Italian cuisine, we stopped in at
Cafe
Juanita to find a light appetizer. Taking in the understated
elegance of the slightly rustic decor and a dining area that looks
out to a lush green garden, I was not so much prepared to be
awestruck by the dish that came out. The grilled octopus antipasti
($14) with fennel, chickpeas and green sauce came out beautifully.
A bright green sauce served as the base with chickpeas over it
while the awesome tentacles of the octopus were expertly draped on
top. The octopus was incredibly tender to bite into, with a lightly
charred surface that contrasted well with the smoothness of the
chickpeas and creamy essence of the green sauce.
If the drive out of the city to get to Barking Frog isn't calming
enough, the tranquility of the scenery surrounding the restaurant
may do the trick. The restaurant courtyard is covered overhead by
sprawling grape vines, while soothing sounds from the patio
fountain can be heard in the background. Indoors, a circular
fireplace invites you to a comfortable meal alone or calls for a
gathering of family and friends for a celebration.
On
a warm sunny summer day, the red beet salad was exquisitely perfect
($12). The brilliant colors and details of each component created a
refreshing and bright beginning to a meal. The flavorful and juicy
beets were supplemented by the toasted local hazelnuts, a creamy
Laura Chenel goat cheese, baby arugula, all brought together by the
citrusy sweetness of orange segments and a vanilla honey
drizzle.
The Sichuan pepper and coriander-crusted ahi ($34) came out with an
enticing and deep color. One bite of all the dish's elements
revealed a full-bodied richness, which strays from the typically
lighter versions of an ahi plate. With tender braised short ribs
sharing the spotlight, baby bok choy, king oyster mushrooms and a
sweet Asian barbeque sauce, this plate was satisfyingly
complete.
The risotto stuffed quail ($32) was a picture of perfection. Two
flawlessly browned quails sat on either side of a plate separated
by a row of vividly colored heirloom cherry tomatoes and bufala di
ricotta. It was then drizzled with a 10-year balsamic and lemon
olive oil. My first bite of the tender quail was enhanced by the
creamy texture of the risotto with occasional bursts from the
tomatoes that made for a hearty dish.
Next stop was just south of the Fremont Bridge at Ponti Seafood
Grill. A warmly decorated, Mediterranean-inspired dining area
overlooks a scenic ship canal. A glance at the menu unveiled a
surprising trend of Asian flavors incorporated in some of the
dishes. The fennel seed crusted pan seared halibut ($28) made a
bold statement with its vibrant colors. With a heirloom tomato
peperonata, halibut, a shaved fennel salad and basil oil topping it
off, the flavor was a true reflection of the vision before me;
vibrant, full and bold.
"One of my favorite restaurants" is the way Rachel Ray describes
Volterra, a Ballard restaurant with a Tuscan-inspired menu. After
trying some of the entrees at this endearing establishment with its
inviting dÄĹ cor and friendly staff, it's easy to see why. As
a true seafood lover, I was excited to see seafood stew ($21) on
the menu. Mussels, clams, scallops, prawns and the day's fresh fish
which happened to be salmon, was in a saffron-scented tomato broth
with fresh fennel finishing it off. This healthy serving absolutely
fit the bill. I was only able to admire the beauty of the
delightfully heaping bowl for seconds before digging in. Even on a
full stomach, one wouldn't be able to resist a broth-soaked bite of
the toasted Tuscan bread. The fresh flavors of the shellfish and
tender fish were only further accentuated by toasted almonds that
gave even more of a warmth to it.
Not to be outdone was the house-made lamb sausage links
baked in a sweet pepper tomato sauce over a parmesan carnaroli rice
with fresh English peas and grated pecorino romano ($17). Cutting
into the sausage released a mouth-watering whiff of what was to
come. The sausage was an explosion of fresh, powerful but now
overpowering flavor that was balanced perfectly by the creamy rice
and tomato sauce. A must try.
Finally, we end our search for beautiful food with dessert from
Matt's in
the Market. Where better than a quaint little restaurant
overlooking the Pike Place Market clock and Elliott Bay. The
strawberry shortcake ($7) was a good start to a great end. The
cream biscuit was mild and crumbly and the local strawberries used
were macerated in a strawberry and elderflower liqueur. The
traditional and classic dessert came with a buttery mascarpone
cream with a hint of vanilla, making it richer in flavor.
Next up was the mocha ice cream torte ($9), Matt's in the Market's
take on the ice cream cake. It was a square of pure joy. Chocolate
cake is layered with house-made coffee ice cream, covered with a
chocolate glaze. Of course, I can't forget the cinnamon, caramel
and hazelnut brittle served alongside. The moistness of the cake
went well with the light coffee flavor, giving a smooth consistency
with the crisp brittle adding a nice textural detail.
Food is art. With every dish there is a beauty, a creative imagery
that has come to fruition. After this month's Dine, I look forward
to appreciating and reveling in not only the taste, but also the
beauty of all future dishes to come.


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