Seattle Food Local Favorites

September 21, 2009 0 Comments


The complexities of food are unlike those of any other substance. The ability to nourish the body, enrich the mind and fill our hearts are just some of food's powers. But seeing food as a form of expression, as an art, is reserved for those with a greater passion for cuisine. The end result was five great restaurants with five great chefs that were delighted to share their works of art with us.

For a little northern Italian cuisine, we stopped in at Cafe Juanita to find a light appetizer. Taking in the understated elegance of the slightly rustic decor and a dining area that looks out to a lush green garden, I was not so much prepared to be awestruck by the dish that came out. The grilled octopus antipasti ($14) with fennel, chickpeas and green sauce came out beautifully. A bright green sauce served as the base with chickpeas over it while the awesome tentacles of the octopus were expertly draped on top. The octopus was incredibly tender to bite into, with a lightly charred surface that contrasted well with the smoothness of the chickpeas and creamy essence of the green sauce.

If the drive out of the city to get to Barking Frog isn't calming enough, the tranquility of the scenery surrounding the restaurant may do the trick. The restaurant courtyard is covered overhead by sprawling grape vines, while soothing sounds from the patio fountain can be heard in the background. Indoors, a circular fireplace invites you to a comfortable meal alone or calls for a gathering of family and friends for a celebration.

On a warm sunny summer day, the red beet salad was exquisitely perfect ($12). The brilliant colors and details of each component created a refreshing and bright beginning to a meal. The flavorful and juicy beets were supplemented by the toasted local hazelnuts, a creamy Laura Chenel goat cheese, baby arugula, all brought together by the citrusy sweetness of orange segments and a vanilla honey drizzle.

The Sichuan pepper and coriander-crusted ahi ($34) came out with an enticing and deep color. One bite of all the dish's elements revealed a full-bodied richness, which strays from the typically lighter versions of an ahi plate. With tender braised short ribs sharing the spotlight, baby bok choy, king oyster mushrooms and a sweet Asian barbeque sauce, this plate was satisfyingly complete.

The risotto stuffed quail ($32) was a picture of perfection. Two flawlessly browned quails sat on either side of a plate separated by a row of vividly colored heirloom cherry tomatoes and bufala di ricotta. It was then drizzled with a 10-year balsamic and lemon olive oil. My first bite of the tender quail was enhanced by the creamy texture of the risotto with occasional bursts from the tomatoes that made for a hearty dish.

Next stop was just south of the Fremont Bridge at Ponti Seafood Grill. A warmly decorated, Mediterranean-inspired dining area overlooks a scenic ship canal. A glance at the menu unveiled a surprising trend of Asian flavors incorporated in some of the dishes. The fennel seed crusted pan seared halibut ($28) made a bold statement with its vibrant colors. With a heirloom tomato peperonata, halibut, a shaved fennel salad and basil oil topping it off, the flavor was a true reflection of the vision before me; vibrant, full and bold.

"One of my favorite restaurants" is the way Rachel Ray describes Volterra, a Ballard restaurant with a Tuscan-inspired menu. After trying some of the entrees at this endearing establishment with its inviting dĂŠcor and friendly staff, it's easy to see why. As a true seafood lover, I was excited to see seafood stew ($21) on the menu. Mussels, clams, scallops, prawns and the day's fresh fish which happened to be salmon, was in a saffron-scented tomato broth with fresh fennel finishing it off. This healthy serving absolutely fit the bill. I was only able to admire the beauty of the delightfully heaping bowl for seconds before digging in. Even on a full stomach, one wouldn't be able to resist a broth-soaked bite of the toasted Tuscan bread. The fresh flavors of the shellfish and tender fish were only further accentuated by toasted almonds that gave even more of a warmth to it.

Not to be outdone was the house-made lamb sausage links baked in a sweet pepper tomato sauce over a parmesan carnaroli rice with fresh English peas and grated pecorino romano ($17). Cutting into the sausage released a mouth-watering whiff of what was to come. The sausage was an explosion of fresh, powerful but now overpowering flavor that was balanced perfectly by the creamy rice and tomato sauce. A must try.

Finally, we end our search for beautiful food with dessert from Matt's in the Market. Where better than a quaint little restaurant overlooking the Pike Place Market clock and Elliott Bay. The strawberry shortcake ($7) was a good start to a great end. The cream biscuit was mild and crumbly and the local strawberries used were macerated in a strawberry and elderflower liqueur. The traditional and classic dessert came with a buttery mascarpone cream with a hint of vanilla, making it richer in flavor.

Next up was the mocha ice cream torte ($9), Matt's in the Market's take on the ice cream cake. It was a square of pure joy. Chocolate cake is layered with house-made coffee ice cream, covered with a chocolate glaze. Of course, I can't forget the cinnamon, caramel and hazelnut brittle served alongside. The moistness of the cake went well with the light coffee flavor, giving a smooth consistency with the crisp brittle adding a nice textural detail.

Food is art. With every dish there is a beauty, a creative imagery that has come to fruition. After this month's Dine, I look forward to appreciating and reveling in not only the taste, but also the beauty of all future dishes to come.

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